Necktie and lining therefor



March 1945- M. KLEINMANN NECKTIE AND LINING THEREFOR Filed April 15, 1940 2 Sheets-Sheet l 2g wan /JMA ATTO R N EY March 6, 19455- M. KLEINMANN NECKTIE AND LINING THEREFOR Filed April 15, 1940 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 8%MMXM ATTO R N EY Patented Mar. 6, 1945 UNITED STAT 2,370,670

NE CK'IZIE A ND' LINING. THEREFOR Max Klein'mann; New- York; Y,, assigno'r, By

meme-assignments, to Dimple Tie Corporation;

New Y'orln N; a3- corporatiom or. New York zhppl'ibatiomfipril' 15, 1940;, Serial No. 329,619

This invention. relates generallyto combined neckties with linings, and to linings for neckties, andmore particularly tosuchlinings which when embodied inaneckt'i'e cause the necktieto crease or to drape in apredetermihed" manner whenthe same is worn.

The present application includes certain improvements' over my Patent No. 2-, 1-23 ,'900 granted J my 19; 1938}, and over my copending applications. Sen. No.. 196,439 filed March 1'7 1'93'8; Ser.. No.- 222';530fi1ed August I, R338; and Ser. No. 270L753", filed April 29, 1939.

Among the objects. of." the present invention. is the provision of. a combi'nedllini'ng and. tieon a necktie lining. which, when. incorporated in. afour-in-hand or othertype. of necktiewhich isknotted or otherwise constricted when worn, causes the tie to form a drape,.'dimpl'e, or be-- come longitudinally corrugated a predetermined positionwith relation. to the. longitudinal side edges of the necktie.

Another object herein is the provision. of a combined. lining, and tie or a. necktie lining. hav ing' a self draping feature whose structure will drape. with, equal: facility whenever the lining, is longitudinally stressedat any point along. a pre determinedareathereof; thedrape heingretained by a restriction about. the tie' caused for example; by a knot. therein.

Another objectof the present: invention isthe provision of a self draping, combined. lining and tie or a necktie lining, which. is: of: very simple construction" and adapted for quantity. produo-- tion' at low cost.

The present. invention. discloses. the. construction of avself'draping.comhinedlneclitieand lining or a lining, which has. no parts which. will. be d'eieteriously. affected'l by laundering, dry clean ing; pressing or wear.

An advantage of the present structure lies in the fact that no skill" need he acquired. and. no new'dressing or tying method'need'he learned or. used by the wearer because. the ordinary. tying operation automatically forms the desiredjshape.

to the tie lining and necktie.- The draped appearance of the knotted'.tie. which results from= the normal tying: operation does not have: an.

artificial stifi; or. prefbrmedappearance but appears to have a natural". drape such; as results when a cravat issliillfiill'y and'. carefully tied.

lies. in the. quantity high speed production of necktie liningshavingv the above describeddrapi'ng. qualities; manufactured without the necessity of any folding operation;: and the quantity high speed production of combined Linings andties requiring. only asingle-folding; of the necktie casing and a turning (r-ig-htsidemut) operation.

These objects andturther features andadvantages will more fully appear in-the progress of thisdisclosure and be pointedout-in -the appended claims:

In the drawings, forming. amaterial par-t of this disclosure; and in which similar reference; characters designate corresponding parts: throughout. the several views of each embodiment:

Figure lis a viewin: perspective showing a necktie as worn andincluding. the present inventionr In this View the lining iswithin the necktie in its normal position-=,-. that is, with the: lining arranged to. form: a centrally disposed de .pressionbordered on either side by a correspond ing elevation or bulge.

Figure: 2- is a view taken similarly to- Figure butin-thisview the tie lining isvreversed-f'rom its normal? position so that: the lining forms acentrally disposed bulge on elevation bordered on either side bya corresponding depression or groove.

Figure: 3- is a fragmentary,- elevational View of a necktie lining. illustrating a firstembodiment oftheinvention; In: this view, the: lining is: in the: normal position thereof corresponding to=Fig-:-- ure land is-unstressed.

Figure l is a-iragmentarw rear elevational v iew ofthe embodiment illustrated in Figure 3;

Figure 5 is-arfragmentary schematic front ele vational viewgreatly enlarged: showing in detail thearrangement of the various? threads forming. the draping. means; Imthisfigure: the textile material forming the foundation upon: which Figure 9 is an enlarged sectional view as taken from thelplane 9-=-9:on: Figure-*3;

Figure 9A is an enlarged transverse sectional view taken similarly to Figure 9 showing however the necktie lining as corrugated or creased when the lining is longitudinally stretched.

Figure 10 is an enlarged transverse sectional view taken similarly to Figure 9A but showing the tie body in addition and also the altered position of the parts when the tie body or casing is introduced.

Figure 11 is an enlarged transverse sectional view as seen from the plane on Figure 1 showing only the front portion or larger wing of the tie body and the enclosed lining.

Figure 12 is an enlarged fragmentary front elevational view taken similarly to Figure 3 and showing in detail the arrangement of the various threads forming the draping means. In this view the lining is in the normal position thereof and is unstretched.

Figure 13 is a fragmentary front elevational view corresponding to Figure 12 but showing the parts in a stressed condition.

Figure 14 is a fragmentary view of a second embodiment of the present invention in one stage of the manufacture thereof. In this figure the necktie casing is inside out and the rear surface of the lining is seen.

Figure 15 is a transverse sectional view of a necktie made in accordance with the second embodiment of the invention. This view shows the stage in the manufacture of the necktie following the stage illustrated in Figure 14.

Turning to Figures 1, and 3 to 13 inclusive, a necktie generally indicated by numeral includes a front portion 2|, a draping portion 22, and a knot 23. A lining blank 24 is preferably of such width as to conform to the shape of the necktie casing 25 in which it is enclosed in the completed necktie. The blank 24 tapers outwardly at its longitudinal side edges 2'! and 28 toward its lower wider end portion 29.

The lining blank 24 is composed of any suitably resilient material, preferably however, of woolen cloth cut on the bias (indicated at 38) as is well known in the art to which the present invention pertains.

The draping means generally indicated by numeral 26 comprises a plurality of thread elements 3|, 4|, and 5|, preferably composed of relatively inelastic cord or thread.

The thread 3| is brought downwardly and forwardly through the blank 24 at a point 33 which is located on a first portion of the lining blank or a first imaginary longitudinal axis or line along which it is desired that the lining (and hence the tie casing25) will form a fold or edge of a drape. Thread 3| is then bent or-turned upon itself to form the bight A and passed rearwardly through the blank 24 at the point 33. In passing to the rear of the blank the thread 3| thus may contact itself. Thread 3| is continued downwardly along said first axis or line at the rear surface of the lining a suitable distance forming a thread portion 34 and is then brought forwardly through the blank 24 at a point 35. Next a bight B is formed similarly to the bight A. The thread 3| is again passed rearwardly through the blank 24 at the point 35 and continues downwardly along the rear surface of the blank 24 forming a thread portion 36. At point 31 the bight C is formed and in a similar manner this procedure is repeated forming a series of bights like the bights A, B, and C interconnected by the thread portions similar to the thread portions 34, 36 and 38.

The thread 4| is brought downwardly and forwardly through the blank 24 at a point 43 which is located on a second portion of the lining blank or a second imaginary longitudinal axis or line along which it is desired that the lining (and hence the tie) will form a fold or edge of a drape. The thread 4| is then bent or turned upon itself to form the loop R and passed rearwardly through the blank 24 at the point 43. In passing to the rear of the blank the thread 4| thus may contact itself. Thread 4| is continued downwardly along said second axis or line at the rear surface of the lining a suitable distance forming a thread portion 44 and is then brought forwardly through the blank 24 at a point 45. Next a loop S is formed similarly to the loop R. The thread 4| is again passed rearwardly through the blank 24 at the point 45 and continues downwardly along the rear surface of the blank forming a thread portion 46. At point 41 a loop T is formed and in a similar manner this procedure is repeated forming a series of loops like the loops R, S, and T interconnected by the thread portions 44, 46, and 48.

The thread 5| is disposed on the front surface of the lining'blank 24. Since the interlacing of the threads 3|, 4|, and 5| occurs as a continuing series, a description of two cycles of movement of the thread 5| will suifice. As seen best in Figures 5 and 12 of the accompanying drawings the thread 5| is passed downwardly and forwardly through the bight A forming portion 52, then through the loop R. The thread 5| is then bent upon itself to form a loop H which encircles the loop S and then continues upwardly forming thread portion 53. The thread portion 53 goes through the loop R and changes its direction to form the thread portion 54 which travels downwardly and encircles the bight B. Leaving bight B thread 5| travels upwardly forming thread portion 55 which passes through the bight A. Leaving bight A, thread 5| travels downwardly forming thread portion 56 and thence downward- 1y through the bight B passing over the thread portion 54, and forming portion 62 (Fig. 12), then through the loop S. The thread 52 is next bent upon itself to form a loop I which encircles the loop T and then continues upwardly forming thread portion 63. The thread portion 63 goes through the loop S and changes its direction to form the thread portion 64 which travels downwardly and encircles the bight C. Leaving the bight C thread 5| travels upwardly forming the thread portion 65 which passes through the bight B. Leaving bight B thread 5| travels downwardly forming thread portion 66 and thence downwardly through the bight C passing over the thread portion 64, and forming portion 12.

From point 3'! the stitching as described is re peated, resulting in the formation of a plurality of stitch portions corresponding to the stitch portions 52-56, and 62-66, both inclusive and in the formation of a plurality of loops corresponding to the loops G, H, and I.

The thread elements 3|, 4|, and 5| are each relatively inelastic, and are preferably strong,

light in weight, and smooth on the outer surface thereof so that they may readily slip through the portions of the lining blank through which they pass and through the bights and loops also.

Each of the above described thread elements 3|, 4|, and'5l, includes a plurality of thread portions. By reason of the positioning or arrangement of the thread elements these thread portions are disposed in different directions with relation to the longitudinal axis of the lining blank 24.

aceeco Eachofi the: thread; elements hasicertai'n portions thereof; arranged longitudinally of the lining blank and certaini other. portions. arranged: at; art angle. to: the longitudinal axis f the: lining. blank. The. angnlarly' disposed: portions will containboth. longitudinal components. or. units. and; transverse components: or units; The thread: portions. ar ranged. parallel to. the longitudinal; axi of? the. lining blank: will. contain. only" longitudinal. corn:- ponents or units while thread; portions arranged: atrighti angles tcrthetlOngitudinal' axisof the lineing blank. will containonly transversecomponents-x or units;

When. the blank 24: iszlongitudinallystretched; in order to extend themselves with the lining blank, the threads 3|, 4t, and-'51 must take a more nearly rectilinear course. This: results in; the. lengthening of the thread portions containing only longitudinal components or units,.oras preponderance: of longitudinal: components or units. This lengthening; requires more thread which is; taken up from the thread; portions, containing; transverse components or. units, and these. last mentioned portions;contract.

Specifically, when: the thread portions 34;, 35 andv 38 and other portions: corresponding; thereto; are lengthened by the longitudinal stretching of: the lining, the bights- A; B, and C and the other: bights, corresponding thereto are: contracted; Similarly the lengthening. of the threadaportionsz 44, 46-, and 48-and other thread portions corresponding thereto causes the loops R, S, and: T,. and other loops corresponding thereto tocon.- tract. Lengthening of the thread portion 155; 5tand. 65 Stand other thread portions corresponding thereto: causes the loops- G, H,. and;I andother loops corresponding thereto to contract.

The contracting thread portions and loops inso contracting must move the points 33, 35. and 3'! and the other points corresponding thereto; and the points 43, 45, and 41 and the other points corresponding thereto, toward each other, causing the portions 39 of the blank which lie transversely between said points to pucker or t r- The thread portions containing transverse components or units prevent the lining blank portions 39 from moving forwardly (as viewed in. Fig. 3) so that the portions 39 gather or pucker rearwardly of the blank 24 and thereby form a centrally longitudinally disposed groove, corrugation or furrow 40 for substantially the entire distance. which the draping means 26 occupies.

The edges 21 and 28 when uninhibited willriseto take a position. indicated in Figure 9A. When the lining is enclosed within the casing 25., how-- ever, the casing. will cause the lining to take the shape indicated in Figure 10. Because of the flattened tubular shape of the casing, the front portion 2! and the drape portion 22 will follow: the contour of the lining to form a corresponding" drape 6-l. The draping efiect of the casing is more readily obtained when. said casing is fabriforces: the: casing. 2-5 1301 fall: intorgroove: or: furrow 4flzformingzthe drape: Eli.

. While: the; illustrated, relatives spacing of the points 33,, and 3!]: from: eachother; and: the points.- 43',. and 41 from each. other; and the spacing otthe: row of points 33 35, 3-1: from the row of points. 43; 45;, 41;, have; all; been found satisfactory in use (Figures; 3 and 4s showing" actual. size spacingoii. said: points in: one: commercially successful form) said spacings may loeavaitie'd; without departing fromthe: scope of the appendedzclaimst. Among.the-variations:which may be produced. are. the following: If. the: spacing is-increasedbetween the: row of. points 33,. 35, 31 andz the row 43 45;. 411;; without. increasing the: spacing between points 33-,35,.and 31;, and: withoutincreasing the: spacing between. points 43;. 45, and 41,. a. greater longitudinal extension of the lining, blank. will: be: required: to get.- a suficienh draping: efiect- Reducing the distance between the points33, 35-: and: 31.3,, and also: between the points 4-3 45, and 41,, but not between the ventie cal rows of points will result in the. formation ofmore thread: portions containing transverse components and a. relative. reduction in the: ratio: oil thread portions containing a predominanceiof; longitudinal components, and a limit will be approached when insufiicientv groove formationwill. occur. upon longitudinal tress; Increasing the spacing between the verticalrows of points and alsothe. spacing between the points in each vertical row will increase the depth of the furrow 40' but when. this. is too deep, the casing: is unable to follow said furrow because the thread" portions cated from woven material and cut on the bias asis well known in the art.

11; may be noted at this point that the drape 6! and the furrow 40 are formed only when the lining blank24 is under stress, but this drape effect is retained in the draping portion 22 by the constriction of the parts caused by the knot 23'. When the necktie is knotted it will of course be understood that the lining blank 24 and the casing 25 are both longitudinally stressed or stretched as the knot 23 is made tight. When the blank 24 forms a groove 40 at the knot 23, the knot 23 also containing transverse components or units prevent-the casing, from falling, into the furrow; Reducingthe spacing betweenthe row of'points 33,

1 35, 31; and therow of points 43; 45, 4.1,. will cause contraction to take: place nearer the apex. L08 of the angle formed by the sides: of the furrow, and because of the leverage effect, the draping or. grooving action will be: amplified and. yet:- the stitches are located so deeply in the furrow that they donotinterfere with the falling of the casing into the furrow. A limit will be approached? however, when the vertical rows of points'are so close-together that the groovingiefiect is lost since the thread portions.- Will have practically no transverse-components.

In the operation. of the invention it is to be noted that when the: lining blank isiunder longitudinal stress, by reason of' the fact that itis composed of. elastic". material, there will be a lateral. contraction thereof- In other: words, therow of points 33,. 35, 31, and the row'ofpoints 43-, 45 41 will move toward each other even when the draping means 26 is not installed in the lining. In order to form agroove or furrow it is necessary that. these vertical rows of points'approach each other to a greater degree or at agreater rate than would normally occur: by reason of the lateral" or transverse contraction of-the lining blank. This additional contraction is performed by the thread" portions containing. the transverse components which are in turn actuated by the thread portions: containing the longitudinal components.

The distance between the points 32 and 32' (when the lining blank is unstressed) is determined by the probable area on the tie which may be knotted throughout'the life of the cravat; or if desired the row of stitches (draping means 26) may be extended to include the entire length of the lining--that is, the larger wing, the neck band portion and the smaller wing.

A feature of the present invention lies in the fact that the draping effect is not limited to any one portion of the necktie, but may be so arranged that any area usually likely to be disposed in or adjacent to the knot may be caused to drape and remain so draped until the knot is opened and the portion released, and this is also true regardless of the number of times that the tie may be coiled about itself in the formation of a knot.

In Fig. 2 the position of the lining blank 24 is reversed front to back. In this position the 'furrow 40 projects forwardly f the tie casing 44 and a drape or pucker occurs on either side thereof which is followed by the casing to form a double draped effect including the drapes 82 and 83. Governed solely bythe ultimate dimensions of the finished necktie it is of course possible, when desired, to run a plurality of threads 3 I, 4| and 5! in spaced relation to each other and longitudinally disposed. This will result in an increased number of furrows 40 in the lining blank 24 and corresponding grooves or drapes St.

The completed lining blank 24 with the'draping means 26 installed therein may be incorporated into the necktie 20 in any suitable manner as by means of a single row of ordinary slip stitching as is well known in the art.

In accordance with the second embodiment of the invention the lip stitching is not required and the draping means 26 serves also to attach the casing 25 to'the lining blank 24 (see Figs. 144 and with no loss in the resiliency of the finished necktie over the known slip stitch construction.

The casing 25' of the necktie in its developed or blank form may be the usual blank as presently employed in the art The method of making the second embodiment is substantially as follows. The necktie casing is folded along its central longitudinal axis 5!) with the wrong or back side outermost. When the necktie casing 25' is thus folded the longitudinal free edges 14' and 15 are preferably aligned so as to be cotermino-us, and the folded casing is placed on a fiat surface. If desired, the central longitudinal axis of the lining blank may be visually indicated by any suitable mark or device. The lining blank is next placed on the uppermost surface of the folded casing with the longitudinal axis of the lining adjacent the said edges 74 and 15, the positioning f the lining blank being such that the draping means 26' will have the stitches thereof corresponding to the stitches 3i and 4! penetrating both layersof the casing and the lining blank.

Next a row of stitching or draping means 26' is installed, the thread element 5| being on the then upper surface of the lining, as is seen in Figure 14. Since the stitching in the draping means 25 is identical with that of the draping means 26 a detailed description thereof is not considered necessary. It will be noted however, that the thread portions corresponding to the thread portions 3d, 36, 38, and i t, 46, and 48 are disposed on what will be rear portions of the casing 25' adjacent the edge 74', and these thread portions will be concealed in the finished tie, as seen in Figure 15. i

The stitching having now been completed it is only necessary to turn the entire tie casing 25 and lining 2 inside or right side out. The

necktie 20' will then appear as in Figures 1 and 15, and the edges or folds l6 and 11' may be pressed. as is well known in the art.

The stitching shown in the draping means 26 and 26 may be performed by sewing machine using a three thread, two needle machine with looper. In accordance with the second embodiment, the draping means 26' may run the whole length of the tie, taking the place of theusual slip stitching, or it may be used for only a part, and the remainder of the necktie may be constructed with any other desired type of stitching.

The foregoing description has been made rather detailed for clearness of understanding only and'no unnecessary limitations should be understood therefrom but the appended claims should be construed as broadly as permissible in view of the prior art.

I claim:

1. In a necktie of the four-imhand type having a lining wherein stitching is provided in the knot forming area thereof, the said stitching being so arranged that a dimple or drape will automatically form when the necktie is made up into a knot, that improvement in said stitching arrangement which comprises providing at least three thread sections, the first thread section passing through the lining of said necktie at spaced points along the length thereof in such manner as to form free loops of said thread at such points, the second thread section passing through the lining of said necktie at spaced points along'the length thereof in such manner as to form free loops of thread at such points, the said free loops of said first and second thread sections being spaced from each other across the width of said lining and the third thread section passing freely through the said loops of said first and second sections to interconnect the same.

2. A necktie according to claim 1 in which the said third thread section is disposed entirely on one side of said lining.

3. A necktie according to claim 1 in which the said loops of said first and second thread sections as Well as the third thread section are disposed on one side of the lining.

4. In a necktie of the four-in-hand type having a lining wherein stitching is provided in the knot forming area thereof, the said stitching being so arranged that a dimple or drape will automatically form when the necktie is made up into a knot, that improvement in said stitching arrangement which comprises providing at least three thread sections, the first thread section passing through the lining of said necktie at spaced points along the length thereof in such manner as to form free loops of said thread at such points, the second thread section passing through the lining of said necktie at spaced points along the length thereof in such manner as to form free loops of thread at such points, the said free loops of said first and second thread sections being spaced from each other across the width of said lining and the third thread secticn being looped around and passing freely through the said loops of said first and second thread sections to interconnect the same so as to produce a quicker acting and more positive dimple or drape.

MAX KLEINMANN. 

